FAQ
Pricing and payment
What does it cost, and when do I pay?
One flat fee, and you know it before we start. It's $900 to find and negotiate your vehicle, or $1,000 if we're also handling your trade-in. Vehicles over $120,000 are $1,200, plus $100 for a trade. You pay $300 ($400 with a trade) when we get started. The rest is due no sooner than when your car is in your driveway. The only other cost you might see is shipping, and only if you choose it.
How do I pay you?
After our discovery call, I'll email you a short service agreement to e-sign and an invoice. The invoice takes credit card, ACH, PayPal, Venmo or Apple Pay. ACH skips the card processing fee. Your fee to us is completely separate from what you pay the dealer for the car.
Is the retainer refundable? What if you can't find my car?
The retainer is non-refundable. It covers the time we put in from day one. There's no deadline on the search. I keep working until we find the right car, and you never owe the balance unless we actually finish the deal. In nine years, a client leaving without a car has only happened a couple of times.
Will I really save more than your fee?
Most clients do, often by several thousand dollars. On some vehicles there's less room to negotiate. There, the value is getting the right car at a fair price without spending your weekends at dealerships. If I don't think I can help you, I'll tell you before you spend a dime. And if a local dealer already gave you a great deal, I'll tell you that too.
How it works
What exactly do you do, and what do I have to do?
We start with a 20–30 minute discovery call about what you want, what you don't, your budget and your timeline. No prep needed, and you don't pay anything until after that call. Then we search, check the history on every car, negotiate, and bring you the best options with everything laid out. You say yes or no. Once you pick one, we handle the dealer, trade-in, financing rate and shipping. Your job is to tell us what you want, approve a car, and sign.
Do you work in my state? Do I have to fly anywhere?
Yes. We're based in Minnesota and have helped clients in all 50 states. We start with dealers near you to see if they can be competitive, and at the same time we look at what's available across the whole country. That way you get the best car and price, not just the closest one. Everything happens by phone, text, email or video. Paperwork is signed electronically or by FedEx, and your car is either waiting at a local dealer or delivered to your door. Flying in to pick one up is rare, and always your choice.
How long does it take?
Most clients are in their new car within about 30 days. Some take a day, and some rare searches take months. If you have a deadline, like a lease ending, tell me and I'll plan around it. What I won't do is rush you into the wrong car to hit a date. Walking away from a bad deal is part of the job.
Do I buy the car from you or the dealer? Do dealers pay you?
You buy directly from the dealer, and your credit application goes straight to them. Think of us like a real estate agent who only works for the buyer. We never take money from dealerships, ever. You're the only one who pays us, so the only person we answer to is you.
Choosing the car
Which car should I get? Which brands are reliable?
Helping you choose is part of the service, not an add-on. I'll ask how you drive, what you haul and how long you keep your cars, then narrow it down to a few models worth test driving. For long-term reliability and resale, Toyota, Lexus and Honda lead, with Mazda right behind. I'll also be honest about what a car costs to own, not just to buy. A cheap used luxury car can come with expensive repairs.
Should I buy new, used or certified pre-owned?
It depends on the make and model, and I'll show you the numbers either way. Some cars hold their value so well that a used one costs almost as much as new, and new is the smarter buy. Others, especially EVs and many luxury models, lose value fast, so a lightly used or certified car saves you a lot. Certified pre-owned adds warranty coverage and often a better interest rate. I'll tell you when it's worth paying extra for, and when it isn't.
Should I lease or buy?
Leasing is a tool in the toolbox. It isn't always right, and it isn't always wrong. It depends on your miles, how long you keep cars, and how well that model holds its value. I'll price both and show you the total cost side by side, taxes included. That way you're making the call with real numbers, not a sales pitch.
You can't see the car in person. How do you know it's good?
We check the vehicle history report, ask for detailed photos and videos, and ask the dealer pointed questions. We pass on salvage titles and cars with real accident damage. If a car has minor cosmetic history, we tell you up front. For used cars, I strongly recommend an independent inspection at a shop near the dealer, usually about $100–250. I'll help set it up. You're also welcome to test drive the same model locally before we buy one anywhere.
Negotiating and deals
I already found a car. Can you still help?
Absolutely. Send it over and I'll review the deal for free. I'll tell you honestly whether it's a good price, what's padded, and whether there's something better out there. If it's already a fair deal, I'll say so, and you may not need us at all. If there's work to do, we'll talk about what makes sense for your situation.
Are there hidden fees? What's the real out-the-door price?
The advertised price is only the starting point. What matters is the out-the-door number. Tax, title and a doc fee are normal. Extras like paint protection, nitrogen tires, window tint and market adjustments usually aren't. We get the full out-the-door price in writing, flag every fee before you commit, and push back on anything that doesn't belong. No surprises when you sign.
Yes. If there's money to be saved, I'll find it. I spent 10 years inside dealerships, so I know where the room is and when a dealer is bluffing. Some dealer groups truly don't negotiate. When that happens, I use what similar cars sell for across the country, and I'm not afraid to take your business somewhere else. Sometimes the win isn't the price. It's free certification, better financing or a higher trade value.
Do you handle manufacturer rebates and special offers?
Yes. We check the rebates, incentives and promotional rates you qualify for and make sure they show up in your final numbers. If a promo rate beats your bank or credit union, I'll show you, and if a cash rebate is worth more than the low rate, I'll show you that too.
Trade-ins, shipping and paperwork
Can you handle my trade-in?
Yes, for an extra $100. You fill out a short form with photos, the VIN, mileage and your payoff if you have a loan. Then we shop your car to multiple buyers, like CarMax, Carvana and dealers, so you get top dollar instead of whatever one dealer offers. Sometimes trading in saves you sales tax. Sometimes selling it separately puts more money in your pocket. I'll show you which is better.
Can I trade in a car that still has a loan on it?
Yes. Give us your payoff amount and lender, and we'll factor it into every trade offer. The loan is paid off as part of the deal. If you owe more than the car is worth, I'll walk you through your options before you commit.
Can you ship a car to me? What about tax, title and plates from another state?
Yes. About half our clients have their car shipped. We use trusted carriers we've vetted, and it usually runs about $1.25 per mile on an open trailer. Enclosed transport is available for high-end cars. You pay shipping directly, and I only recommend a distant car when the deal still wins after shipping. Buying out of state is routine. The dealer collects your home state's tax and handles the title and registration paperwork, and your plates come in the mail.
Is my car insured during transport?
Yes. The carriers we use are fully insured, and your car is covered from pickup to delivery.
Can my car be delivered to my workplace or another address?
Yes. Tell us where you want it, whether that's home, work or somewhere else, and we'll arrange it with the carrier.
Can I get enclosed transport for a luxury or classic car?
Yes. Enclosed transport protects the car from weather and road debris, and it's a good fit for luxury, exotic and classic cars. It costs more than an open trailer, so I'll quote both and you choose.
How do I pay for the car? Should I finance or pay cash?
You pay the dealer directly, usually by cashier's check or wire transfer. Most dealers won't take a credit card for the full price. I'll walk you through exactly what they need and when. On cash versus financing: if the manufacturer is offering a low promo rate, financing often beats cash. If rates are high, cash usually wins. Either way, I'll compare the dealer's rate against your bank or credit union and make sure you aren't paying a marked-up rate.
Warranties and after the sale
Should I buy an extended warranty, GAP or dealer add-ons?
Usually not from the dealer. Most add-ons, like paint and fabric protection, are pure profit for them. The finance office pushes hard, and saying no won't kill your deal. If you want an extended warranty, we work with two warranty partners that often cost far less than the dealer's plan. If the dealer's plan is cheaper and just as good, I'll tell you to take theirs.
Will you help me after the sale?
Yes, and not just until the invoice is paid. Clients call us about refinancing, warranty questions, a missing part from the dealer, EV charging setup, and when it's time for the next car. If something isn't right when your car arrives, I'll go to bat for you with the dealer. Once you're a client, you have a car guy for life.